In the realm of travel, few destinations promise as much as Nusfjord, a historic fishing village turned resort nestled in the Lofoten archipelago of northern Norway. For my 15-year-old daughter and me, the allure of Nusfjord was irresistible. We dreamed of being awestruck by the vertiginous, snow-covered peaks rising like towering shark’s teeth from the Norwegian Sea, indulging in incredible local cuisine, and witnessing the Northern Lights painting the night sky with their psychedelic hues. While these expectations might sound demanding, they are par for the course in this remote and breathtaking corner of the world.
The Journey to Nusfjord
Reaching Nusfjord is an adventure in itself. Tucked away in a secluded bay, this village is a labyrinth of islands famed for its dramatic mountains. We arrived in late winter, when everything was blanketed in snow. The landscape was reminiscent of the fictional kingdom of Arendelle from Disney’s *Frozen*—a place where reality feels like a movie set. In fact, Arctic Norway was a significant inspiration for the film.
The journey to Nusfjord is a challenge wrapped inside a conundrum. You can take three flights from Heathrow, landing just an hour’s taxi ride away (which we did on our return). Alternatively, with a direct flight to Tromsø, it’s a long day’s drive. But the isolation is part of the charm; it keeps the non-adventurous at bay and invites you to savor the journey.
We chose the ultimate in glacial travel: an overnight cruise ship from Tromsø with Havila Voyages. The ship weaved its way around majestic isles, offering a glimpse of the region’s unparalleled beauty. The final leg to Nusfjord was on a quaint school bus shared with locals—a touch of authenticity that set the tone for our stay.
Nusfjord Village & Resort
Nusfjord isn’t just a resort; it’s a living, breathing historic fishing village. The earliest settlements here date back to 425 BC, making it possibly the best-preserved fishing village in Norway. The rorbu—bright red traditional fishermen’s cabins, now converted into guest suites—are scattered around a crooked little harbor. Many of the other buildings form a living museum, from the cod-liver oil factory to the boat shed, blacksmith, and sawmill. Guests can freely wander in and out of these weather-beaten buildings, each packed with original tools and artifacts used by Nusfjord’s former inhabitants.
Accommodation: A Room with a Historic View
Our rorbu was a snug yet spacious base, refurbished in a shabby chic, mid-century style. It felt like stepping back in time, with two en-suite bedrooms complete with rain showers and a separate living space. The highlight was the location: our cabin was perched on the boardwalk of the wooden harbor, with the tide lapping directly below. The sense of history was palpable, especially when we learned that a local captain named Ragnvald Olsen used to row out to sea from this very spot in 1947.
Activities and Adventures
Our stay was filled with unforgettable experiences. One of the highlights was a sea-kayaking expedition, where we paddled out of the harbor to encounter a pod of orcas. The thrill of seeing these majestic creatures up close, against the backdrop of jagged mountain peaks, was exhilarating. Our guide, Eduardo, even brought along fish to attract sea eagles, adding another layer of excitement to our adventure.
When the weather prevented us from going on a sea-fishing expedition, we embraced the alternative: a serene paddle through the icy waters, with snowflakes gently drifting down. The experience was a reminder that sometimes, the unexpected can be just as rewarding as the planned.
Hot-Tub Views and Sauna Sessions
After a day of adventure, there’s nothing quite like soaking in an outdoor hot tub while the Northern Lights dance above. Nusfjord offers a well-deserved sauna and hot-tub session, perfect for unwinding and basking in the beauty of the Arctic wilderness. If you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse of the Aurora Borealis, adding another layer of magic to your stay.
Dining Delights
Nusfjord’s Restaurant Karoline is a culinary gem, famed for its Nordic fare. Each evening, we were treated to dishes that were nothing short of perfection. From tender Lofoten lamb with celery compote to local duck breast with Nusfjord Toddy sauce, every meal was a celebration of local ingredients. The restaurant’s reputation is so high that it even hosts a three-star Michelin restaurant, RE-NAA, for brief residencies.
A Year-Round Destination
We chose to visit in winter for the frosty vistas and our first sighting of the Northern Lights, but Nusfjord is a wonderland in any season. In summer, the landscape transforms into a hiker’s paradise under the midnight sun, with seabound activities and even golfing options. The village’s charm, however, remains constant throughout the year.
Nusfjord is a place where history meets the Arctic wilderness. It’s a destination that promises delight and delivers heart-stopping moments. Whether you’re seeking the thrill of encountering orcas, the serenity of a hot-tub session under the Northern Lights, or simply the comfort of a historic cabin with a view, Nusfjord has it all. Our expectations were not just met but exceeded, reminding us that sometimes, the best adventures are the ones you least expect.
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